Cut-loss mathFinal dimension accuracyLess waste

Saw Blade Kerf Calculator

Kerf is “invisible” until it eats your last 1/8". Enter your real kerf width and plan cut sequences so parts come out dead-on.

Fast workflow
  1. Measure your blade’s real kerf (test cut, calipers).
  2. Enter number of cuts or parts to be produced.
  3. Review total loss and remaining material.
  4. Adjust cut plan before you touch the good board.
Tip: Mark your “keep side” and “waste side” on every layout. Kerf errors are usually human, not math.

Saw Blade Kerf Calculator

Estimate material lost to saw blade width (“kerf”) and find your usable length after cuts.

Total Kerf Loss: 0.00 in

Usable Material Left: 96.00 in (across 1 board)

Tip: A thicker blade (larger kerf) removes more material per cut — always plan your cut sequence to minimize waste.

How to use

  1. Measure kerf from a test cut in scrap (don’t trust packaging).
  2. Enter how many cuts you’ll make (or parts you’ll produce).
  3. Use the total kerf loss to plan your layout and grain direction.
  4. Re-check when switching blades (thin-kerf vs full-kerf changes everything).

Pro tips

  • • Thin-kerf saves material, but can deflect more if your saw isn’t tuned.
  • • For batch cuts, account for “setup cuts” too (sneaking up on a fence setting is still kerf).
  • • If you joint/plane after ripping, leave extra for cleanup and treat it like “post-kerf” loss.

FAQs

Why is my measured kerf different from the blade label?

Real kerf depends on tooth set, plate thickness, side clearance, and even feed pressure. Measure your own cut width for best results.

Does kerf matter for a single cut?

One cut can be the difference between a snug fit and a gap. Kerf matters most when you’re stacking tolerances: multiple cuts, tight panels, or precise joinery.

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